Antithesis: A New Fine-Dining Destination at the Historic Royal Gorge Mansion

Antithesis: A New Fine-Dining Destination at the Historic Royal Gorge Mansion

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The 1884 Lyman Robison estate is serving fine dining again after more than a century of history.

Mark and Dawn Greksa, owners of the Royal Gorge Route Railroad, have transformed the historic three-story mansion into a new culinary destination called Antithesis. The project moves from the mobile hospitality of their railroad to a stationary, high-end dining experience located in the heart of Cañon City.

“We’re recreating that vision that the Robisons originally had when they built this house,” Dawn Greksa told The Denver Post. “We’re just keeping it going. That’s really special.”

The mansion, which sits on a four-acre plot across from the Arkansas River, is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Originally built by mining entrepreneur Lyman Robison, the estate was a hub for lavish social gatherings during the Colorado gold and silver booms. The Greksas aim to restore that sense of community and celebration through the restaurant and upcoming event spaces.

From moving meals to stationary fine dining

The Greksas are no strangers to food service, having operated the Royal Gorge Route Railroad for over 25 years. Since purchasing a 12-mile stretch of tracks from Union Pacific in 1998, they have provided meals to passengers traveling through the canyon. However, the logistics of a moving kitchen presented unique challenges.

“The problem with the train is that you can’t afford to miss anything, or leave anything behind,” Mark Greksa said, noting the difficulty of managing supplies on the rails. “You can’t forget the pickles at the depot,” Dawn Greksa added.

Antithesis Dining at the Royal Gorge Mansion — Antithesis Dining

The transition to the mansion was not immediate. Although the Greksas purchased the property in 2018, the onset of the Covid-19 pandemic forced them to pause their renovation plans. It was only after the post-pandemic surge in travel bolstered their railroad business that they gained the capital necessary to invest in the mansion’s extensive restoration.

Dawn Greksa led the renovation, focusing on preserving the estate’s architectural integrity while installing a modern commercial kitchen. The project highlights several original features, including a 44-foot-tall entry with a hand-built mahogany staircase that uses no nails, an Austrian crystal chandelier, and intricate rose-and-leaf motif molding.

A high-stakes culinary arrival

To anchor the new concept, the Greksas recruited Johnny Church, a veteran chef with 30 years of experience in the high-pressure restaurant scenes of Las Vegas and Los Angeles. Church, a Food Network “Chopped” champion, moved to Colorado in June to serve as the founding executive chef and director of food and beverage.

While Church was initially focused on consulting and catering, the physical space of the mansion influenced his decision to relocate to Cañon City. “I was just excited for Mark and Dawn Greksa’s vision on where they wanted to take this place, and I knew I could do it,” Church said.

The restaurant’s name, Antithesis, reflects a menu designed to be the “opposite of ordinary.” Church utilizes seasonal ingredients from nearby farms to create dishes that play with contrasting textures and flavors. Current menu offerings include:

  • A surf-and-turf carpaccio featuring octopus, wagyu beef, aioli, and black garlic vinaigrette.
  • Bacon-wrapped pork belly topped with a sunny-side-up quail egg.
  • Beet-cured hamachi crudo with pickled lemon-thyme-ginger carrots and five-spice crema.

“If we stay on track and keep pushing the quality … Antithesis will definitely be a destination,” Church said.

Expanding the local economic footprint

The opening of Antithesis represents more than just a new place to eat; it is a strategic attempt to expand the tourism draw of the region. While the Royal Gorge Bridge and the railroad are established landmarks, the Greksas are looking to create a reason for visitors to stay longer and spend more within the local economy.

“The train is the destination attraction. We’re able to get people to stay overnight. Now, pairing that with Antithesis, it is a foodie destination,” Mark Greksa said.

The property is already functioning as a hybrid hospitality site. While the ground floor houses the restaurant, the second level has been converted into a private, four-bedroom guest suite available for full-floor rental. Future plans for the estate include:

Project Phase Planned Development
Event Space Refurbishing the on-site carriage house for weddings and gatherings.
Culinary Education Launching a culinary externship program for aspiring chefs.
Landscaping Developing a dedicated garden on the mansion grounds.

As the restaurant continues to build a following among the 17,000 residents of Cañon City, the ultimate goal remains attracting travelers from across the state. The team is currently working to integrate the mansion’s grounds more deeply into the dining experience, including the use of outdoor firepits and expanded garden-to-table possibilities.

The team hopes to eventually launch a culinary externship program that will bring aspiring chefs to Cañon City for hands-on experience.

Worth a look

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