For travelers within driving distance of the Chesapeake Bay who crave autumn’s crisp air and storybook charm, Cape May, New Jersey, delivers a seasonal escape that does not require owning a vessel, Chesapeake Bay Magazine reported. After watching a video of another couple’s trip, writer Krista Pfunder set out to see whether the historic coastal town truly lived up to its Hallmark-movie reputation—and discovered that the fall experience unfolds just as richly on foot, by ferry, and along the shoreline as it does on the water.
The journey itself sets a relaxed tone. Pfunder and a friend booked ferry tickets online before hopping aboard at Lewes, Delaware, after a scenic drive from Annapolis that wound through small towns along the Eastern Shore. The Lewes terminal surprised her with its scale—a large, modern facility with a waterfront restaurant offering indoor and outdoor seating right next door. Boarding went smoothly, the ferry’s driving instructions were easy to follow, and after parking, passengers could board multiple decks with seats inside and outside. The crossing takes just under an hour and a half, with snack bars serving hot and cold food and drinks plus a gift shop onboard, and debarkation proved just as quick and easy. Downtown Cape May lay only minutes away.
A Cottage Built for Seven Sisters
Accommodations anchored the stay at The Virginia Inn, where Pfunder’s room was ready upon arrival on the third floor of the Pink Cottage. Constructed in 1891, the cottage is one of the town’s famous “Seven Sisters”—identical homes built by a wealthy local builder for his seven daughters. The quiet, ocean-view room was small but bright, paired with a spacious, luxurious bathroom. The inn also includes a table-service breakfast each morning, with guests choosing among the hotel porch, the restaurant, or a charming parlor. Pfunder and her friend selected the porch at 8:30 a.m. on their first morning, where they had the space to themselves and enjoyed a quiche of the day filled with bacon, spinach, and cheese—a dish they agreed was the best quiche they had ever tasted, and the favorite thing they ate during the entire trip. A side tip from the experience: try the beet juice.
Victorian Architecture at Every Turn
With the car parked for the duration, the pair walked everywhere except to the whale-watching tour. It took just under 20 minutes to reach the Emlen Physick House, and the stroll itself felt like a tour given the density of historic Victorian homes lining the route. A pre-booked guided tour of the estate lasted 45 minutes, covering the first and second floors of the 1879 home designed by architect Frank Furness. The property stands as one of the country’s finest examples of Victorian Stick-style architecture and once housed Dr. Emlen Physick Jr. alongside his mother and aunt. After the tour, visitors can browse a gallery exhibit and gift shop on the grounds.
Washington Square offered a different kind of exploration—a multi-block shopping district where streets are blocked to traffic and filled with shops, galleries, and restaurants. Pfunder spent hours there, breaking for lunch at Mermaids, where the service and view were standout features. Later, a 45-minute trolley tour of the Historic District wove through town while a guide delivered a steady stream of facts about local events, history, and the buildings passing by.
Dining and Decking Out on the Shore
Evenings in Cape May centered on excellent food and a lively, safe atmosphere. Dinner at the hotel’s Ebbitt Room drew a crowd—the adjacent lounge was packed with patrons enjoying drinks before their meals while a pianist performed. Pfunder started with a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, her companion with a vodka martini, and they split the Beach Plum Farm deviled eggs, whose fillings change regularly; that day one held chicken salad and another crab. She followed with beef tartare and a potato puree side, while her friend had well-seasoned, perfectly cooked chicken. Both were too full for dessert, especially with gourmet candy purchases from Washington Square waiting back in the room. Afterward, they wandered the clean, well-lit streets, taking in seasonal decorations, crisp air, and the sound of live music drifting from venues.
The next morning began with a rescheduled whale tour, so instead the pair walked along Sunset Beach hunting for “Cape May diamonds”—water-tumbled, transparent or frosted quartz pebbles—and amassed quite a pile. The beach also features two large gift shops and a restaurant. When the whale-watching trip was pushed to the afternoon, they grabbed lunch at Lucky Bones Backwater Grille, where Pfunder had a brick-oven Margherita pizza and her friend ordered fish tacos. The main event followed: a three-hour excursion with Cape May Whale Watcher that ventured into the Delaware Bay and then the Atlantic Ocean. The ferry was bigger than anticipated, with a full snack bar and binoculars available for rent. The captain and crew kept the boat close enough to see whales and dolphins while staying at a safe distance. Visitors who photograph sightings can send images to HappyWhale.com.

The People Make the Place
What ultimately elevated the trip, Pfunder noted, was the human element. Almost every person encountered on the sidewalk smiled, nodded, or said hello. Shopkeepers greeted visitors warmly and chatted happily, tour guides showed infinite patience answering questions, and servers took time to ask where guests were from and what they hoped to see. Even a moment of civic care stood out: when a loose dog was spotted in traffic outside a gift shop, an employee from Sunset Beach Gift Shop ran out with a leash to keep the animal safe. That kind of welcome, Pfunder wrote, made her feel as though she had wandered onto the set of a fall-themed Hallmark movie.
Great food, a historic inn, abundant activities in a walkable oceanfront town, and genuinely warm interactions combined to create a vacation the pair immediately wanted to repeat.